Sewing 60's Style
This is sort of an incomplete review, which sometimes I feel maybe isn't entirely fair, but I've sewn enough of this garment to be able to comment on the quality of the design and pattern. To preface things, I moved a few months ago and unfortunately lost the use of my sewing room and office. It's been devastating. As a disabled woman my whole life is centered around my pastimes and without them I'm more sedentary and depressed. I've definitely gained weight and I find that my brain fog is far worse without the stimulation that my art and sewing provide me with. We'll be renovating the sewing room very soon and I'm thoroughly elated at this prospect. It's been so chaotic without either space. Recently I've had the itch to sew, I decided to give it a whirl in our front room using what little fabric and notions I had access to (most things are still boxed). I haven't sewn without a sewing room in something like six years, and it was horrible. It's still horrible. The lighting is abysmal, the cats kept trying to lie on my fabric and pattern paper, cutting was awkward, and my makeshift table using my ironing board collapsed, flinging my sewing machine onto the hardwood floor - the machine miraculously survived, the floor is dinged but it's all scratched and dinged from previous owners anyways so I'm not heartbroken. But I digress, the pattern:
Simplicity 8358 Pattern Review
I chose this pattern after combing through several 1960's frock patterns. Recently I've been watching the latest season of Call the Midwife, which just isn't as good as it used to be, but it's chock full of 60's fashion and seeing all of the bright and happy looking dresses compelled me to revisit the decade. I seldom sew anything 60's because for me it was a decade preoccupied with tent dresses and terribly unflattering silhouettes. There were a few highlights which were largely reminiscent of the 50's, but a lot of the designs I just can't get behind. I don't have the model body type so I can't throw on a full body cape and expect to look chic. That being said, I don't have hoards of 60's patterns and obviously I only keep those that appeal to me. S8358 is one of those dresses that looks flattering enough, it's a princess seamed a-line frock with raglan sleeves in varying lengths with different collar styles. The difficult part is assessing how accurate the illustrations are in the absence of real photographs and in this case... these drawings look really cute. The actual dress? Enhh...I used a hideous Pepto-bismol pink poplin for the muslin. Poplin is the recommended fabric, among others, and I have to disagree with this choice. Not only because I hate poplin, because it's scratchy and it wrinkles, it's just too structured for this particular design. Maybe it works for Verison 3, but belted in Version 2, the look that I made, it causes unsightly bunching and doesn't hang quite right. I also wouldn't use poplin for Version 1 with the gathered sleeves, instead I'd recommend a rayon or lightweight chiffon with a slip worn underneath. The poplin did sew smoothly, though. I ran out of fabric and was unable to cut the second sleeve and either of the three collar options, hence the incomplete garment in the photo. I might purchase some cheap poplin in a contrast some day and finish the dress to donate - I hate being wasteful!
The instructions were fair although I hardly followed them. One thing that irked me was that they begin with Version 1, which has a notched neckline where the scarf pulls through, the other versions recommend referencing back to the beginning steps which have you cut and sew the notch. I knew the difference but a beginner would totally cut this piece without thinking, it's poor organization. Considering that Versions 2 and 3 are the more simplified dress you'd think those assembly instructions would come first and then the collar notch variation added later. It's confusing.
The design is okay. The princess seams and back darts allow for shaping. The size I used was slightly above me in terms of fit so it hung loosely but I think it's for the best considering I have a muffin top right now. These kinds of dresses are unforgiving to those of us without flat stomachs. The raglan sleeves feature a shoulder dart for shaping. I was apprehensive about it but it does sit nicely. The roll collar doesn't work on my stubby neck so I was going to make the shirt collar instead when I ran out of fabric. Assembly is fast, cutting took forever but that was a given without my rotary. I felt overwhelmed by the amount of fabric in this garment. The hem sits just above the knee, but I think it looks better either higher or lower, that could just be me though. The dress is very plain. It almost looks utilitarian like a nurse's uniform. Perhaps a printed fabric might look better for this design but the solid colour is very overwhelming. It looks cute on the mannequin but when I wear it I feel like one of the Mr. Men. Call me Little Miss Underwhelmed. It's unlikely I'll ever sew this again but if I did I might try Version 1 instead, in a much nicer printed fabric.
